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CJ Jeep Willys Disc Brake Conversion Kit Dana 25 27 30 MB
Correct parts to convert early CJ to disc.
Kit contains the following to convert most 1941-1986 front differentials for most Jeeps:
(2)ROTOR 1.12 THK (NEW)
(2)GM CALIPER BRACKETS (USED) May differ from picture
(2)GM LOADED CALIPERS (REMAN)
(2)BRAKE HOSES (NEW)
(2) BANJO BOLTS (USED)
(1) SET OF DISC BRAKE PADS
May require minor brake line modifications.
Will require removal of residual pressure valve in Front master cylinder reservoir.
Suggest our special Master Cylinder for best performance!!!!
Longer wheel studs may be needed.
15" steel rims suggested !!!!!!!
Caliper may interfere with some makes of 15" aluminum rims & Balancing weights, which could require grinding of brake caliper / knuckle
See optional items below:
Price: $649.00
SALE: $429.99
Item Description »
Installation:
1)Start out by stripping off all of your old drum brake stuff. That's right-down to the spindle. Now that you have the hub and drum off, you should find someone who can press the old wheel studs out or you can bang them out with a hammer.
2)Next, place the rotor behind the hub and have the wheel studs pressed through the rotor and into the hub. If you don't put the rotor behind the hub, your brakes won't line up with the calipers.
3)Attach the spindle and Chevy Dana 44 caliper mounting brackets with a couple bolts to test for caliper figment. You will need to replace the 12 (six per side) original fine-thread backing plate bolts with ones that are 1-inch long. You could also step up to some studs at this point.
4)In order to provide clearance for the caliper, you will need to grind a little material off of the knuckle . With the caliper mounting bracket on the spindle, you can get an idea of how much grinding will be necessary to fit the caliper. Remember that as the pads wear out, the caliper will move inward because of its floating design. If you don't grind enough, your caliper may hit the knuckle and render your brakes useless. We ground the fill plug for clearance, although you could just replace the plug with a flush-mount one. Now you can start grinding the knuckle between the two bolts that are farthest to the back of the knuckle. You don't have to remove a ton of material, but make sure you have good clearance by periodically replacing the caliper mounting bracket and caliper for test fitting.
5)Also if necessary, grind the caliper a little (arrow) to make sure that there will be no contact between it and the knuckle as the pads wear out, but be careful not to grind through the casting.
6)Once you have removed enough material, you can then begin rebuilding your front axle. Now would be a good time to replace those worn-out bearings and seals. Remember to pack the bearings and grease everything.
7)We decided to move the hard brake lines from the axle to the frame. Bleed the brakes, and you're on your way. Make sure to check the caliper clearance as the pads wear.
How To Remove Residual Valve
The residual valve holds ten pounds on a drum brake system when the brakes release to keep the spring on the shoes from collapsing the wheel cylinders. Residual valves can be found in the end of the cylinder in ford fruit jar single master cylinders, where the brake lines screw into the master cylinder on some dual cylinders, one in the rear line only on front disc rear drum systems, or in the combination valve rear line only. You can remove the residual valve from the master cylinder where the brake line screws in with a sheet metal screw. Screw it in and then pull. It will come right out.
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